Most locations in the state of Maharashtra make an impression with their crowds, coffee shops and long lists of activities one needs to cover. Then, there is the quiet Satara, a town that moves slowly and yet leaves a very lasting impression. When I came to Satara, it had been part of my plans as just another stop during my road trip in western Maharashtra.
The impression left behind by the place did not lie in any monument or viewpoint here, but in the overall rhythm of the area. The town offers ethereal experiences and views like mist rolling over the mountain routes, the roadside tea stalls on highways, the lakes emerging from between two valleys, and the silent forts overlooking the Sahyadris.
The Road to Kaas Plateau is as Beautiful as the Plateau Itself
Most travellers come to the Kaas Plateau to see the wildflowers, but the ride to the location is equally rewarding. The road winds through lush vegetation, open fields, and quaint villages, where life seems to move at a leisurely pace, away from the hustle and bustle of a modern city. The whole stretch is then covered with waterfalls cascading straight next to the road during the monsoon and post-monsoon period. Some don’t even have names and are only faintly marked, but locals stop casually as if they were just a part of the scenery.
I began early in the morning, before most of the vehicles arrived, which helped a lot. It was still a misty morning over the hills, and in places where the flowers glimpsed through the mist, it seemed like a dream. The ecosystem here is really fragile. However, walking is restricted outside the designated areas due to the laterite soil that hosts several endemic species that flower for a short time of the year.
A local guide told me that some flowers that can be seen during the month of September only bloom for a few weeks, and that each trip to Kaas is different, depending on the time of the visit.
A Visit to the Ajinkyatara Fort
The Ajinkyatara is not as commercialised as most of the forts in Maharashtra, and is still somewhat calm. I arrived just before dusk and saw only a few individuals around the walls of the fort. A layered sequence of hills, quilted lights and faraway roads leading to the Sahyadris is an experience in itself.
The fort is significant historically as it was during the Maratha period and later during Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj’s association. But what really impressed me was the seamless integration of the fort with the surrounding city. It doesn’t seem to dominate the landscape dramatically, but rather looks over it quietly. A local resident I spoke with said that many people visit here early in the morning just to walk, work out or sit alone before the city gets too busy.
Lakes, Backroads and the Joy of Driving Without a Destination
The best decision I made in Satara was that I left for a few hours completely unplanned. The roads around Satara offer a great, slow drive where villages and small lakes can be seen. In the warmer months, fresh sugarcane juice is sold at roadside stalls, and stretches of mountains are constantly in and out of the sun. These roads are not as busy as other hill roads, except on holiday weekends.
Around smaller water sources that lie beyond the city, I saw local families having quiet picnics without the boisterous ambience generally seen by tourists in most other destinations. The conversations I overheard from a few tourists revealed that some were booking hotels in Satara because this city serves as a good starting point for road trips to Mahabaleshwar, Kas Pathar, Thoseghar waterfalls, and fort locations around the area.
Final Thoughts
When I visited Satara, my initial intention was to make an interesting detour. My conclusion was that it turned out to be the most emotionally balanced destination I had experienced in Maharashtra.
With flower-decorated stretches of Kaas Plateau, the peaceful surroundings of Ajinkyatara Fort, and the winding roads that make you want to slow down while on your travels, Satara is one of those destinations that allows you the luxury of experiencing the place without having to engage in the act of being a tourist.
